I am not getting power to the wire for the right

By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. It only takes a minute to sign up. It turns out that the voltage reading at the ceiling is only 30V. I think that means that the motor on my fan isn't the problem, but that there's some problem with the wiring between the light switches on the wall one for the fan and one for the lights, both of which get V and the ceiling.

Does that sound right?

i am not getting power to the wire for the right

What can I do next to troubleshoot this issue? With the ceiling fan taken out of the equation, this will likely be a bad connection or a failing switch. The first places to check are in the wiring above the fan, and the wiring at the switch. Try this to track down the issue:. If there are two sets of wires coming into the switch, one of these is the source, and the second goes to the fan. Pull out the wiring so that you can easily access it without anything touching.

Remove the wire nut on the neutral white wire. Turn the switch to the on position.

i am not getting power to the wire for the right

Turn the breaker back on temporarily and test the voltage from the neutral to the hot both before and after the switch. Turn the breaker back off before doing any other work on the wiring.

Be sure to replace the wire nut when done at the switch. If there is only one set of wires at the switch, then the power source is above the fan.

Turn the switch to the on position and expose the wires for the neutral, the hot from the source that goes to the switchand the hot returning from the switch that goes to the fan. Make sure the wires are not touching anything else, turn the breaker on temporarily and compare the neutral to the hot voltage before and after the switch. If the voltage from the source is low, you'll need to track this down, on the circuit.

The next easiest place to test the voltage is in the breaker panel. After that, you're left with identifying each switch, fixture, and outlet on the circuit and testing each one until you find where the voltage drop is occurring. Note: should you be uncomfortable with any of these steps, especially working with exposed wiring or inside of the breaker panel, then please call a professional.

Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. My ceiling fan isn't getting the right voltage Ask Question. Asked 9 years, 3 months ago.Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? October 11,PM. Home Help Calendar Login Register. Member Posts: 18 Referrals: 0. I was hoping someone could help me out here. This is my problem I went to start my 79 trans am but I have nothing when I turn the Ignition switch.

I have power from the battery to the starter but I have no power to the purple wire on the solenoid when I turn the ignition over. I have been working on replacing the heater core is ther something I could have knocked loose?

The car started fine before ths. Grand73Am Adv. Member Posts: Referrals: 0. I'd check for power out of the ignition switch. The switch isn't where the key is. It's the box on top of the column underneath the dash with all the wires plugged into it.

Also check the red wire going into the switch for power, since it should be the power feed for the switch. If you aren't getting power to the purple wire coming out of the switch, you could try re-adjusting the position of the switch. The switch is slotted so it can be adjusted up or down a bit. The switch is operated from a rod that is moved by the key switch when you turn it. If the switch isn't positioned right, it won't make the connection.

I started following this thread and other starting problem threads when Sunday night I couldn't get my car to turn over. New battery, new cables, but more recently it has started having some starting issues where if I drove it to the gas station and filled the tank and then got back in to start it, it would crank very slow. Since the weather has been very hot here lately I just figured it was the "hot start" issue.

I pulled the starter and had it tested tested good and replaced the positive terminal to go on to the battery post. The battery measure By deduction, the starter works, the battery is good and the cable are getting the volts to where they should go, I think that I need to know more about this ignition switch under the dash How much stuff do I need to remove to get to this switch?

Kemmspk, I agree with what Grand73Am said about checking your switch for contact.By identifying electrical wiring hazards before problems appear, you can make your home safer and possibly prevent a fire or a dangerous electrical shock.

Even the humble electrical outlet or light switch can have numerous things that can go wrong, most of them resulting from faulty installation. Here, then, is a list of wiring problems you might encounter by simply peering into an outlet or switch box with a flashlight. Many of these are easy to fix, but if you find a lot of them, you might want to call in an electrician for an expert inspection of your entire electrical system.

Before working on any electrical circuit or device, always turn off the power to the entire circuit by switching off the appropriate breaker in your home's service panel breaker box. After you've switched off the breaker, test any circuit wires or devices you'll be inspecting with a non-contact voltage tester.

This inexpensive tool is about the size and shape of a permanent marker and allows you to test for power without touching any wires. Simply touch the tip of the tester to the wire in question or insert the tip into an outlet slot or touch it to any device terminal. The tester can detect voltage through the wiring insulation, so you don't have to find the bare end of the wire, as you do with some other testers. If there's voltage, the tester lights up.

Basic Guide to Electricity \u0026 Power in BEYOND (No Man's Sky)

No light, no voltage. Most electrical outlets properly called receptacles today are grounded three-prong outlets. They have one long straight slot, one short straight slot and a roundish ground slot to accept the three prongs of a grounded plug. Older, ungroundedoutlets have only two straight slots, one long and one short. That's why you often have to flip over a plug to fit it into an outlet; it goes in only one way.

Polarized outlets and plugs ensure that electricity flows in one direction only. This makes things like lamps and many appliances more safe to operate. But here's the catch: If you connect the circuit wires to the wrong terminals on an outlet, the outlet will still work but the polarity will be backward.

When this happens, a lamp, for example, will have its bulb socket sleeve energized rather than the little tab inside the socket.

Guess which you're more likely to touch? You want the tab energized, not the sleeve. Inside an outlet's electrical box, the black hot wire should be connected to the brass-colored terminal on the outlet. The white neutral wire should be connected to the silver-colored terminal. If these connections are backward, the polarity is wrong. In a modern home, almost every part of the electrical system is grounded, meaning it has an unbroken if usually not direct connection to the earth outside the house.

When something goes wrong, such as a short or fault, electricity flows safely to the earth via the grounding system. Homes that date back to the s and earlier may have few or no true ground connections. Is this dangerous? It can be. Sometimes very dangerous. But the fact is, most of these homes operate just fine without grounded circuits. That said, if you're adding new circuits or updating any part of an electrical system, you should always include a ground.

It's not just smart; it's the law. If you have outlets on ungrounded circuits you can replace them with GFCIs, or ground-fault circuit-interrupters. These are special outlets that shut off the power if they detect a dangerous ground fault, helping to protect you against shock.

One simple way to test outlets for grounding is to plug in a receptacle tester.

i am not getting power to the wire for the right

If the tester indicates an "open ground," the outlet may have no means of grounding or there may be a ground wire but it's improperly connected. It also could be grounded to a metal electrical box but the box is not properly grounded. Installing more than one wire under any standard screw terminal is not only a stupid move, it's a lazy one at that.Buying Advice.

Pro Talk. Photos New media New comments Search media. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Today's Posts. Unread Posts. Search forums. Log in. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. No start, no current to white wire on solenoid. Thread starter Keith B Start date May 10, Keith B Forum Newbie.

Joined May 10, Threads 1 Messages 2. I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old mid to late 's? Craftsman LawnRider, model It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over.

I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current.

Should I also be looking at the seat switch?There are several possible reasons why your thermostat may have no power. If a breaker did get tripped, reset it. If so, flip the switch on the outlet and see if the display on your thermostat is back on. This is a common problem for many homeowners. Bad batteries may also be a contributing factor when your thermostat is getting no power. The controls in addition to the display on most thermostats is run by batteries. On the other hand, the display and the controls on some thermostats are not powered by batteries.

In fact, many thermostats are powered by the 24 volts from the transformer. This transformer is located inside your HVAC equipment. This is what is referred to power stealing technology. However, if your HVAC equipment has low voltage, it can cause the screen on your thermostat to go completely blank. If you find that you did trip a breaker, simply reset it. However, if the breaker trips a second time, you might want to contact a professional unless you have experience in this area.

Nails, pests like mice and rats, and corrosion can all be a contributing factor. When inspecting the fuse, look for the filament running through the length of it. You can purchase new fuses at most home improvement stores for a very reasonable price.

Furthermore, you need to know that this may have happened due to other circuit components. The fuses are just not made to handle that much amperage. The fuse will literally pop out when this happens. If you want to check your fuse and other circuit components, simply inspect it or hook it up to a multimeter Testing for a blown fuse. Another reason your thermostat might have no power could be due to dirtiness.

Things like nicotine, dirt, dust, and other filth can build up on the inside and will need to be cleaned on a regular basis to properly function. To clean your thermostat, simply unsnap or unclip the outer cover and then use either a can of compressed air or an old rag to blow or wipe away the grime.

Once you have cleaned the inside of the thermostat, you can then put the cover back on. Is your thermostat still not getting power? R terminal will use the red wire.

Rc : Power for cooling Rh : Power for heating. C terminal will use the blue or black wire Common wireIt enables the continuous flow of 24 v AC from the Red wire. G terminal will use the green wire. Y terminal will use the yellow wire. Air conditioner. W terminal will use the white wire.Car audio systems can be tremendously complex, and car audio system problems are often difficult to root out.

Common Car Amp Problems (And How to Fix Them)

In addition to having all the same components of home audio systems, car audio systems are also subjected to temperature extremes, vibrations, and other stresses on the road.

So while car audio amplifiers are just one component among many, the problems they can introduce are vast and varied. Some car audio problems that are commonly attributed to amps include sound distortion, no sound at all, and even bizarre sounds like farting. Some of this can be caused by a broken amp, but all of them can be caused by other underlying issues that will still be around if you try to fix the problem by throwing a new amp at it.

In order to turn on, your amp needs to have power at both the remote and power wires, in addition to a good ground. If the remote turn-on wire doesn't have power, your amp won't turn on. The remote wire acts essentially like your finger flicking a switch, where your finger is battery power, and the switch is a mechanism inside the amplifier.

The remote turn-on wire usually comes from the radio, in which case your amplifier won't turn on if the radio isn't on.

So if there is no power at the remote terminal on your amplifier, the next step is to check for power at the corresponding wire where it connects to the radio. If your amp is wired incorrectly, and the remote turn-on is connected instead to the power antenna wire on the head unit, you may find that the amp only powers on sometimes.

In this specific situation, the amp will usually only turn on when the head unit audio input is set to AM or FM radio. The power wire is the next thing to check if you find no problems with the remote wire. This wire will be much thicker than the remote wire, and it should have battery voltage. If it doesn't, you'll want to check for any inline fuses and verify that the wire isn't loose, corroded, or shorted out somewhere. If the remote and power wires both check out okay, the next thing to look for is continuity on the ground wire.

If everything there checks out, then you will have to rule out problems with individual components. The first step in diagnosing an amplifier protect mode light is to simply unplug the speaker wires.

If you notice that any of them are blown, then that may be the cause of your problem. If you are unable to find any problems with your speakers, RCA patch cables that are grounded out or otherwise faulty can also cause the protect light to come on. To check this, you can simply hook up a set of good RCA cables to your head unit and amp. If that causes the light to turn off, replacing the RCA cables will fix the problem.

In-home audio setups, clipping is typically caused by an underpowered amp or inefficient speakers, but loose or burnt wires can introduce similar problems in cars. This is a pretty easy process if you have access to both the head unit and the amp — simply unplug the RCA cables from each unit and reconnect them with a good set.

Verify that the head unit is turned on, the volume is turned up, and cycle through multiple inputs, like the radio tuner, CD player, or auxiliary input. If you get sound from one input but not another, the problem is in your head unit, and not your amp. If the amp drives that just fine, then you have a problem with your speakers or wiring. First, you need to inspect your patch cables and speaker wires. If the cables that connect your head unit and amplifier run alongside any power or ground cables at any point, they can pick up interference that you will then hear as distortion.

The same is true of the speaker wires.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service.

Checking for Incorrect Electrical Wiring

It only takes a minute to sign up. In trouble shooting this we found that an outside outlet had 70 volts coming through its ground. We went inside and disconnected everything but what is shown. The white is to the common, the red and black go through each side of the 2 pole 60 amp breaker.

Testing from the common to ground shows that this voltage still exist. In testing continuity between black and white, we found that it tested positive. We went as far as to see that an outside halogen light was the reason for this continuity showing a solid connection. With all power connected, everything works, I just show this voltage passing between ground. Is this a common occurrence where some voltage will pass between power and ground? My gut says no, but then I am a pseudo electrician.

We have one coming, but would like to be able to tell him just about where the issue is. If you have a multiple ground rods then that could be causing the issue.

No Power to Thermostat? Diagnose the Problem with These Easy Tips

Everything should be bonded together; if they are not bonded then that could be the issue. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. What causes power to enter ground? Ask Question. Asked 5 years, 9 months ago. Active 2 years, 2 months ago.

Viewed 6k times. Buddy Buddy 11 1 1 silver badge 2 2 bronze badges. If you test continuity between the grounded neutral conductor and the ungrounded hot conductor while things are connected to the circuit, you will indeed test positive.


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